Over the last 150 years many of the world's best agricultural soils have
lost between 30-75% of their carbon, and this has contributed billions of tons
of CO2 to the atmosphere. 1/10 of all CO2 emissions since
1850 have been from farm soils! This has had a major impact on climate change!
Many of us will remember learning at school about the creation of the American
dust bowls from the prairies in the 1930's. Most of the agricultural soils in
southern England, especially those situated on the South Downs have less than
2% soil organic matter and could easily become dust bowls! Around 30% of the
world's farm soils have been abandoned in the last 4 decades because of poor
soil.
A recent study from the US has
clearly shown that organic agricultural practices build healthy soils by
storing away appreciably larger amounts of carbon and for longer periods than
typical agricultural soils. Probably the
most compelling findings was that on average, organic farms have 44% higher
levels of humic acid, (a component of humus) that sequesters carbon over the
long term, than soils not managed organically. (Misiewicz,
2017)
So we ask the question; what practices are most important for building soil organic matter while at
the same time ensuring good harvests of organic vegetables at HCF? Here are
three more suggestions.
1. Minimise soil disturbance
There is an increasing body of evidence that suggests that digging, rotivating
or tilling on the larger scale is utterly devastating to the soil if practiced
five or six times a year. First it "slices and dices" many of the
beneficial soil organisms like worms and destroys their habitat. As we saw in
our worm survey on 29th March 2019 there are a group of earthworms, the epigeic
worms that live in the surface litter and help to break it down. These actually
form quite a large portion of thrushes' diets, and soil ploughing may be
partially responsible for their massive population decline of more than 50%
between 1970 and 1995.(Lusher, 2019) . The anecic worms
that are the drainage worms that make deep vertical burrows which help water
infiltration and deep plant rooting are also disturbed or destroyed by frequent
digging and their numbers decline leading to poorer drained soil. (Chambers,
2019)
A second problem associated with digging is
that it turns the soil, introducing air containing oxygen to pockets in the
soil which enables bacteria to thrive. Bacteria increase in numbers if the
conditions are right: good levels of oxygen, moisture, nitrogen and carbon. If
the soil is rich in nitrogen (has been manured or fertilised), the bacteria
will take in as much nitrogen as they can, but they need about 20 times as much
carbon as nitrogen. So the bacteria pull as much carbon from soil organic
matter as they can, excreting the bulk of it into the atmosphere as carbon
dioxide. Once all the easily digestible soil organic matter (SOM) has been used
they will then turn to any humus available in the soil and more slowly break
that down! This has been giving a yield boost to the farmers on the South
Downs, which is what they want, but it is causing the humus levels in the
fields on the Downs to fall dangerously low. So as we can see after just a few
seasons of tilling the soil becomes carbon depleted.
There are other disadvantages to lots of
digging or rotivating: dug or rotivated soils release far more nutrients than
the soil plants can use and these leach through the soils or are washed out by
heavy rains. Finally digging stimulates
weed seed germination. Weeds love disturbed, bacterially dominated soil because
their goal is to grow quickly, set seed, die and get another generation of weed
seeds into the soil.
Charles Dowding began practicing a
"no-dig" method of soil cultivation in 1983 which seems to obtain
good results on an allotment scale (Dowding, 2019) .
By not digging a good biological tilth has developed over time.
Biological tilth is the kind of crumb structure that good organic soils becomes
as the fungal mycorrhiza produce glomalin which causes particles to aggregate
together in little clumps roughly 1 cm across. This is often first found in a
soil around the roots of healthy plants. It is resistant to weathering and
degredation by digging, while at the same time allowing water to enter easily,
but holding onto the water so it doesn't drain though too quickly and take the
nutrients with it.
To understand better how Dowding's
"no-dig" method works watch this 19 minute video Spring in the No-
dig garden at https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/#inbox/KtbxLxGgHQSXRTZNcHgjvZmXGbnJKXDlCL?projector=1
Initially we may want to consider a
"minimal dig" policy and reduce the use of rotivators on the soil.
2. Sheet Mulch in the autumn
We dealt last week with adding a few centimetres
of an organic material to a crop as it is being planted out or adding a
composted manure or mulch in the autumn before sheet plastic is used to cover
the plot. What I am suggesting here is rather different.
As a teenage I remember buying dry tubifix
worms to feed to my tanks of tropical fish. But then I discovered I could grow
my own worms by placing bread on damp soil in a margarine tub in our shed and a
few days later under the bread would be loads of worms! It saved me my pocket
money! Sheet mulching is a bit like that on a bigger scale.
In Rwanda 35 years ago we made a deep bed
full on any unwanted organic matter: old grass rugs, chicken droppings, sorghum
and maize stalks, sheep and goat shed straw and poo, chopped down banana stems,
old leather sandals and shoes, paper and wood shavings. Eventually it formed a
bed about 20 cm high. We covered it with cardboard and then left it to the microbes
to break it down and the worms to mix it for a few months. Then we grow all
sorts of wonderful crops on it for several years. Might we not consider making
a sheet mulch bed somewhere on the farm by collecting all sorts of unwanted
organic matter over the summer: cotton tee shirts, paper, cardboard boxes,
coffee grounds, garden weeds, leaf mould, sawdust, straw, urine and biochar? We
could then make a deep bed in the autumn, to rot down over winter and grow in
next year? By making one sheet mulch bed a year for several years we could
slowly move to reduced digging this way!
3. Focus on building soil resilience.
One of the features of climate change is that the seasons are becoming
more unpredictable. Since we began at HCF we have had wet winters, dry winters,
very cold late springs, warm early springs, droughts in summer, really damp
summers, typical autumns and indian summer autumns! We have had to become
flexible with planting dates and careful about hardening off crops grown in the
polytunnels. We have lost whole sowings of crops to freak weather and we've
lost plots full of potatoes to blight in damp summers. As we are becoming more
resilient to climate change so we need our soil to be more resilient: able to
cope with water stress, flooding, frost, snow, humidity, heat and sunshine.
Studies show that organic growing
systems get around 30 percent higher yields in periods of drought than conventional
systems due to the increase of SOM and its ability to capture and store water
for crops. What causes this higher yield? We know that organic matter holds
anything between 4 and 10 times its own weight of water. This is partly because
organic matter acts like a sponge and partly because organic matter particles
have a charged surface that attracts water so that it adheres to the particle surfaces.
So if we can increase our SOM at HCF it is most likely that our soil will be
able to hold more water and maybe the plants will be able to keep going without
being watered for another 3 or 4 days. This could help a crop survive through a
dry spell. Similarly, after a very heavy
period of rain the soil might be able to hold more water and so reduce runoff
to flooding rivers and the loss of precious crop nutrients.
So if we are to
build soil resilience at HFC we may need to be more proactive in putting
organic material such as manure, compost, mulch, crop waste, progro, leaf mulch,
wood chip, straw, bio-char and other sources of organic carbon onto our fields
and try to avoid letting the majority of it turn to carbon dioxide within a few
months by digging or rotivating.
What are your
thoughts?
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